Graffiti tour and last day in Germany

I wanted to take a graffiti and street art tour but I was worried that I'd be too tired because it was 4 hours long. "Why don't you DNF the tour?" asked Pankers. That was a great idea. DNF is a race term that means DId Not Finish. It's my vacation, if I want to go to only two hours of a tour, them I will! 

After my friends left for Oktoberfest and still undecided, I wandered around town and decided that if I made it in time, I'd go. If not, oh well. On the way to Alexanderplatz I stopped in the Ampelman store for some shopping. Ampelman is the little traffic light man in old east Berlin. They saved him as a nostalgic touch to the city. 

I went by this sign and later learned that it meant "water where the fire hose water comes from"

Alexanderplatz, the meeting place of our tour. 

I explained to our guide, Adrien, that I had errands to run and only had 2 hours. He was fine with that. In our group was some kids from the hostel, some Australians and a chain-smoking Russian girl with fake, injected lips who talked about clubbing and how amazing the clubs in Berlin are.  She was friendly, though. 

We went to parts of town together on the train - places I'd never venture to on my own. We had to walk up and down tons of stairs. Walking down stairs the day after a marathon is a special kind of hell. 

This artist formed an important graffiti gang called the crazy young kids or something like that. He painted two-handed fists around the city from 1995 to 2004. He invented a special hand cart that enabled him to roll up and down the subway tracks at night to paint. They were the premier graffiti group in the early 2000s. The groups formed little families and everyone had a job to do when a piece went up because they had to be painted so fast. Some people watched for police, some painted, etc. 

This is an example of a heaven piece. You climb up to the roof of a building (or break in) and paint down with big rollers. The artist's nickname issue Poet. The piece below was spray painted with a fire extinguisher, which I guess is harder than it looks. Artist's name is Just. Poet and Just are famous Berlin graffiti guys. 

This was hand-painted by repelling down the building. When the spotlight of the car dealership next door shines on it, it looks like he's really landing on the moon. 

This guy is an up and coming graffiti artist that can paint incredibly fast and created his own font (hard to see). He also repels up and down buildings. 

People don't spend the money to remove the graffiti so much in Berlin because the artists are so relentless - they just paint it back. It's also not usually tied to gangs and crime as it is in Chicago. It's more "art" here. Not universally loved but more universally tolerated as part of the patchwork of the city. People paint over the graffiti with other graffiti, though. It's accepted that a piece could change over time. 

This guy paints indigenous animals that were forced out by the cities developing. He travels around the world and paints different animals native to that area. I thought this was fascinating. 

This was part of a big warehouse area that hosts artists. This one is from an Israeli artist and addresses some of Germany's more painful history:

Behind the warehouse was this strange little photo booth that actually had people in it taking pictures! I can not stop looking at this picture. 

This artist takes the environment into account. When the pipe drips and freezes, it deliberately looks like snot! 

I forget what all the ants mean here. I was just so tired and didn't take notes. 

I went home and read. I walked by my favorite new restaurant

But decided to go for German instead for my last night in Germany.

Next: Croatia 

Marathon #5

Warning - this post could be extremely boring unless you want to hear me drone on about running. 

I went to bed Saturday night with hopes of sleeping 5 hours. They say the night before the night before the race is most important for sleep - and I slept great Friday. 5 hours is really all you can hope for. 

I woke up before the alarm and ate breakfast with Laura and Sean. We had only about 20 minutes to eat, and I eat a LOT. I shoveled as much food as I could into my mouth and we met Pankers to walk to the train. I wasn't feeling nervous, but Laura and I kept wondering "what if we lost all of our fitness during the taper?" Usually a runner tapers a few weeks before a marathon to rest and store energy. I typically gain a couple of pounds during the taper but this time I didn't. My insane appetite went away for a week or two.  You aren't moving as much, so you feel lazy, like you aren't doing anything to help yourself. Your instinct is to "cram for the exam" and you can't. 

During the taper it's common to get moody or emotional. My two half ironman friends Ann and Anna were laughing about how stupid tv shows or commercials were making them weepy the week before their event.  

We lost Sean at his gear check - men and women have different gear checks at this race.  We found our gear check (they put the women in the woods - women comprise only about 25-30% of this race)

and got in our corrals, laughing at the awesome German announcer. Every race should be officiated in a German accent! 

They were playing pop music to pump us up, and an aerobics instructor got up on a platform to give us funny warm up dances to do. And everybody danced along in the corral. One of those "only in Germany" moments. It was hilarious! The elites took off, then the sub 4 hour people, then we moved up to the starting line while they played a dance version of "zorba's dance", the Greek party song. Everybody clapped along in time. The energy was amazing and I was elated and so excited.  They announced all the major visiting countries who were participating. Denmark, Poland, England and the United States when I yelled a loud WOOO! The energy of 40,000 people in the starting corral is just so overwhelming. 

We got to cross the starting line and I turned my iPod on. My goal was to run 9:40 to 9:45 miles the whole way. My new garmin watch helped a lot. I didn't have to worry about kilometers or think about anything. I would take it mile by mile. Once that mile was finished, it was over and I'd start again. No dwelling about the past mile or thinking about future miles. Be a robot and just follow the watch. That was a new strategy for me. 

Miles 1 - 5 i tried to feel loose and slow down. I always run too fast at first and fade later.  I needed to learn that lesson 

Miles 5 - 11 I felt fantastic. Nothing hurt. I could go like this all day!

Miles 11 - 15 ok, past the halfway mark - got that out of the way. Still feeling good but struggling really hard to keep up the pace after stopping for water and powerade. The watch told me exactly how much aid station cost me. I knew I needed to have water, but I had no time to dawdle. It was slam the water down and catch up. I was noticing all these tall, muscular Northern European men and proud that I could run with them. Still thinking positive! 

Mile 16 - a stupid power gel display. They were handing out large tearable pouches of power gel. I wanted one and could not rip it open. I wasted so much energy trying to rip that stupid packet open or tear it with my teeth. I was so annoyed. Other people were able to open theirs, and all the spilled gel made the street sticky for at least a kilometer. You could hear everybody's shoes sticking to the pavement and making sticky, crackling sounds. Running on sticky concrete wasted so much energy. But after that mile was over, per my rules I left it behind. Leave the frustration of that stupid mile behind and start new on 17. 

Mile 17 - 20 the crowds were amazing! I am just not the kind of runner that likes crowds or feeds off the noise. I do better getting into my own head and focusing. The iPod was a great idea. I could tune everything out. Starting to feel a little tired but still good! 

Mile 20 - I reminded myself that this was usually when things fall apart. I was still able to run mile 19 in about 9:30. The next few miles were miraculously OK. 

Mile 23.5 - I just ran out of steam. I slowed down to a 10 or 10:30 pace. My hamstrings felt soooo bad. They had never hurt before a few weeks ago. At least my stupid plantar fasciitis felt OK. Everyone was hurting. I was actually passing people. I saw people walking. Unless I'm injured, I never walk. It's mile 24, it's supposed to hurt like a motherfucker! If it doesn't, you are either running an ultra or you aren't trying hard enough, I say.  At least pretend to run. 

Mile 24 - 26 I looked at my watch and finally knew that if I could just run 11 minute miles and under, I would PR. Just 20 more minutes of this wretched feeling. Just 10 more. There's Brandenburg gate, there's the finish line! 

Result - 4:15:58. Goal was 4:15. I'm totally OK with that! 

I met Erika, Pankers, Laura, Kimberley and Derek in a beer garden. 

Erika and Pankers both PR'd and Boston-qualified. They are both so fast! 

Laura and I realized that we didn't turn our chips in. We'd be charged 25 euros each if we didn't. We decided to limp back to the race and turn them in. It took forever. We got lost. Finally we convinced some race employees to take them from us.  Now we had the daunting task of taking the train home (read: steps, lots of steps!) I said "I wish we had a riskshaw to take us home" a few minutes later, we SAW A RICKSHAW and a nice lady biked us home for 16 euros. It was worth every penny and so much fun. 

We couldn't walk far so we drank beer in the hostel bar across the street. Later some of us got curry wurst and I accidentally spilled some on my bed while I was eating and it left a yellow curry stain. It was a great end to a day I'll always remember! I love running around one of my favorite cities in the world. 

Back in Berlin!

I have so much love for this city. Berlin isn't the most obviously beautiful city in Europe (there is a lot of competition) but it's definitely one of the most interesting. I feel at home here!  It's vibrant, a little rough around the edges (but safe), cosmopolitan, artistic and it was the center of one of the most important revolutions of my lifetime. My grandparent's generation fought in WW2 in Europe but it was my generation of Germans that tore down the wall when I was in college.  I came here in 2011 to run the Berlin marathon with some friends from CARA, and this year we decided to come back - (some same people, mostly new people).  We were all lucky to get in, the race sold out in 3.5 hours! I had to have Kimberley register for me because I was on a bus in Morocco last fall when registration opened. 

I landed on Friday completely recovered from jet lag and excited to see my friends.  I was really looking forward to the marathon expo (it was fun last time) but this year it was maddening.  My claustrophobia kicked in big time (this picture looks oddly empty of people). I bought a few shirts and picked up my bib. Usually I have a rush of emotion or excitement when I actually get my marathon bib and chip in my hands.  This time, I did not. I had been strangely ambivalent about the race for about a week, almost negative about it. I blame lack of sleep or maybe that I was tired. I needed to get that energy back. I believe that marathons are very mental and positive mental energy means everything in doing well in a long race. I can slog through a 5k with any state of mind but  a 13.1 or over needs something else.  I had an almost perfect summer of training but I was suspicious and felt that my luck had maybe run out, which is completely crazy.  

We ate bratwursts at the expo and I got a carrot-ginger heath juice thing that I hoped would make me somehow heathy and vibrant. 

I was able to finally check into my room at the Circus hotel, same place we stayed 2 years ago. I love that hotel. Reasonably priced and friendly with a great breakfast. I love the neighborhood too! 

I feel like this is the montrose brown line stop - my home! 

That evening I went to a Russian dumpling place that blew my mind. I met the others at their German restaurant to have a drink with them. 

I woke up in a much better state of mind, completely positive about the race again, thank goodness. You can't force the way you feel so I was relieved. Saturday morning we did a group photo shoot at the a East side gallery (top picture). It was nice to revisit all the artwork. 

A Trabant, an old communist-era car: 

After the photo shoot, Pankers and I took the train home while the others toured the city. We had the same idea - rest! I locked myself away in my room to read with my legs elevated. I had walked so much in Stockholm that I was worried. It was torture to be back in Berlin and not be able to walk around but it paid off in the end. That evening, we had a grandma-early pasta dinner and got all of our outfits ready before early bedtimes. 

Next: marathon day 

Oktoberfest...we did it 100 percent

I wasn't originally going to do Oktoberfest. Too touristy, I said. Too expensive. I'm too old. Just asking for trouble.. I remember telling Kimberley that if I go, I have to go in with 100 percent enthusiasm! My friends started making plans and I allowed myself to be talked into it. When ever again will I have several friends going to Munich at the same time? We warmed up for Oktoberfest in my German neighborhood in Chicago a few times. We got matching shirts made. We eagerly anticipated this for months. It was all of those things listed above. And more. But hilarious and amazing!

After the marathon, Jen and I did laundry at the most bizarre laundromat I've ever seen. It had a light up panel on the wall telling you which machines were free, and a very fussy man running the laundromat. The three of us had a celebratory beer, then hobbled down the block for a nice outdoor Italian dinner. We were too tired to join the others downtown for the official afterparty.

The next morning we were met by a very hungover and tired other half of our party. We had booked first class seats on the Berlin to Munich train, planning on singing and being borderline rowdy all the way. I pictured us with our arms around some Germans, swaying back and forth, singing Oktoberfest songs. It was the opposite of that. We napped!

SOMEBODY needed several bottles of water. I wonder why?

We arrived in Munich, which was in a celebratory mood. But also smelled of cigarettes, beer, vomit, desperation, regret and cheap cologne.

I took a walk around Munich, then found a quiet square to read and have a coffee. I got hungry and accidentally ate something that looked like a cookie but was really a wall decoration. We met for dinner at the original Hofbrauhaus, which is like a mini Oktoberfest in itself.

Jen practicing lifting some steins:

I had some bratwurst and spaetzle (not pictured). I think we all fell in love with spaetzle on this trip. I ate it as a kid, but never with cheese and onions!

The next morning, after a large breakfast, we headed for the morning shift at Oktoberfest. Oktoberfest goes in two shifts. AM and PM. Many seats are reserved, and you really have to scramble to get group seats together. We were lucky and got a great table at the Spatenhaus. We sang and toasted people at every table nearby. Some Italian guys were sitting at the next table and one of them gave Carrie some flowers.

Pankers and Steph:

The steins were so large, you had to look inside your glass as the tidal wave of beer came at you:

We made friends with a Pretzel guy. I called him Jazz pretzel because he kept doing jazz hands with his pretzel. We cheered every time he came by and waved and cat called to him like he was a celebrity. To us, he was!

I loved this family, all dressed alike. Kids and all!

The band played traditional Oktoberfest songs, and the Austin Powers theme. Every 10 minutes or so, they would play the "ein prosit" song, and everyone sings and prosts.

One of our meals. The food at Oktoberfest was fabulous!

Dave and his cauldron of sausages. Apparently they have to be peeled first, and sliced a certain way. We were doing it all wrong and were corrected by a German. Then we still did it wrong.

Between the AM shift and PM shift, we went to the GIANT amusement park on the Oktoberfest grounds. Oktoberfest is ENORMOUS. Grounds just built for this purpose.

We rode a crazy conveyor belt ride - it went up a steep hill and nobody was able to stand straight up. Carrie did a backwards tumble. It was really funny to watch. Here is me scared to go on another ride!

This was one of the funniest parts of the day, the fun house. You had to put on 3-D glasses and go through an indoor obstacle course. There was a giant METAL drum with hard metal ridges that spun around like a clothes dryer. The idea is that you walk through and might tumble a little bit.

But each of us fell over and tumbled around and around, helplessly. We all have big bruises. I was in the dryer with Kimberley and a little kid that looked like Manny from Modern family. (he is pictured above between K and Donna). I wonder how he felt having two adults thrashing around and almost kicking him in the head? I was also laughing so hard I almost peed. Here is Jen in the dryer, below. I love how two people in traditional German dress are waiting their turn, above. Tumble dry medium!

I love how this kid is just trying to crawl out while Jen is tumbling around and around. They would never have this in the USA. Amusement park rides with metal ridges while people are drinking?! And I was shocked at how many people wear lederhosen to Oktoberfest. I thought it would only be a few people. It was more like 30 percent or more. German outfits everywhere!

Time for some more food!

For the PM shift, we moved to the Hofbrauhaus (not to be confused with the one downtown). What a coincidence, the same Italians sat at the next table. One of the Italian guys was really gross. Actually they all were getting on my nerves. This kid made a lewd gestures to me with his fat little fingers and tongue.

After awhile at the Hofbrauhaus, everyone in the entire hall was standing on the benches and dancing. The energy level in the evening was MUCH more crazy and out of control. They played all kinds of Oktoberfest songs: take me home to the country roat, Hey hey baby (ooh! aa!) I wanna know if you'll be my girl, and of course "Ein Prost" 876,953 times. My arm got sore from Prosting. I swear we had to do it every 15 minutes! I was actually pretty impressed with the Oktoberfest grounds. There were enough bathrooms and they weren't too far away. It was controlled chaos. But chaos for sure. People were bumping and josting eachother while they were dancing on benches.

Below, some young Germans we made friends with. The Italian guys did not like them because they wanted to talk to us, and we were talking to the Germans instead. The Italians actually confronted these guys. "hey we are a trying to a talk to these a girls and you are getting in the way!" Security stepped in. The Germans just left. There were people from all over the world having a crazy time.

While we were dancing, we saw a guy in a Berlin marathon shirt. We all yelled to him and he joined us. He was actually from Chicago. Now we have a new friend, Jeff.

After hours of dancing on benches and getting jostled around, I was bumped and fell. Hard. On my face. We had to go to the official Oktoberfest medical tent. They examined me and took me to the hospital. I was horrified, but my forehead had swelled to an egg sized lump! It was huge. Pankers went with me to the hospital. They took my blood pressure, asked me several questions and just let me rest in a nice comfy bed with a bag of ice. I was very lucky. I didn't break anything or have a concussion. I was so grateful to have Pankers with me. People in the Munich hospital were very nice. Oktoberfest takes care of its patrons. They could have easily just let me go home after the medical tent, but wanted to make absolutely sure I was OK. Total bill, about 22 euros. amazing. And I got a cool hospital band as a souvenier!

Total damage for our group> one ER visit, two make outs, one person got lost for three hours, several hangovers the next day. We had an amazing time. And I never need to do it again! Truly a rite of passage. I gave the marathon my all, then Oktoberfest. Both were tests of endurance.